ronwarren
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Post by ronwarren on Nov 4, 2012 10:15:30 GMT -5
what I learned about photographing airshows
Here's what I would suggest when it comes to shooting those speedy beasts at the airshow. Lessons learned at the second of two airshows a week apart.
Find the sweet spot on the lenses you plan to use. I planned to use my longest lens, a fairly cheap Sigma 70-300mm without OS. Turns out it is sharpest around f11 and f13. Roger that!
Rather than the 1/1000 shutter speed suggested in my reading, 1/2000 or even 1/3200 is better (you will, unfortunately, be nearly freezing propellers, but everything else is better -- and it won't matter on jets)
With those settings, you're not getting a whole lot of light, so crank up the ol'. ISO. Probably beyond what you are comfortable with. On my Canon 40D I usually don't like to go higher that 400, maybe 640. But I went to 800 often and all is well. Higher ISO contributes to more noise, but more light lessens the effect and I was able to fix the rest with the noise reduction features in Lightroom 3.
If you have problems panning with the aircraft, I suggest looking for the slower parts of the performance such as when the plane hits the top of a loop-de-loop or intentionally stalls.
Leave the filters off your lens. The first show I used a polarizer and I think that it very subtly affected my autofocus accuracy (anybody ever have a similar experience?).
Other than that, get as close as you safely can, use your lens hood, shoot in manual and RAW, try your hand at manual focusing if your lenses hunts too much for that small object in the very big sky, and practice panning smoothly.
Thanks, R
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Post by CalvinDigital (Charles Calvin) on Nov 7, 2012 6:49:05 GMT -5
Now you are talking about my cup o’ tea.
Airshow photography is all about panning. You’ll know if you are good at it or need practice pretty quickly.
Jets can actually be easier to shoot then props because, like Ron suggested, you can crank your camera up to 1/1000, 1/2000, 1/3000 and you are freezing every little bit of movement.
As for props, a frozen prop is a failure. With proper panning techniques you can get sharp results of the much slower prop aircraft and still get a nice “full pizza” prop.
Use Shutter Priority. For beginners I suggest using shutter priority, again, photographing airshows is all about shooting fast moving objects and trying to achieve sharp results. You shouldn’t worry too much about depth of field; most likely you are going to be shooting aircraft against a solid blue sky. Even if there are clouds, at the distance you will be shooting at depth of field rules are generally out the door.
Ideally spot metering is best because you want to expose for the aircraft, and being shot against a bright blue sky evaluative will usually underexpose the aircraft.
Take a machine gun to a knife fight! You want to shoot in high speed burst mode. The more shots you take the better chance of getting a good shot. Basically, the faster the burst rate the better.
I always shoot with a UV filter on. Polarizer sometimes, remember they have no affect on bare metal. A lot of vintage aircraft will be bare metal. I can’t comment on weather or not it messes with autofocus.
The ends of the fight demonstration area will get you closes to the action. Aircraft will be flying right to left for the most part and circling around behind you off in the distance. As the aircraft come in on approach it is the ends of the show area where they are closes to spectators. This is why photo clubs and photo pits are located on the right end of the display area.
I find a 100-400mm lens is perfect for airshows. A 300mm is good and much more affordable but the extra 100mm is quite nice. I always recommend if you don’t have one to rent one going in to a airshow.
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Post by CalvinDigital (Charles Calvin) on Nov 7, 2012 6:49:48 GMT -5
oh yea, image stabilization and a mono pod go a LONG way for successful panning. And shoot in RAW ... uh duh.
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ronwarren
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Post by ronwarren on Nov 7, 2012 12:56:33 GMT -5
Great tips, Charles!
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